This is a short note on one of the more important recent innovations in horology. It pertains to the assortment, which is a collection of parts regulating the release of energy from a watch's mainspring. In detail, the assortment consists of the escape wheel, balance wheel, hairspring, anchor lever (usually) and pallet stones. I've now seen two similar, and major, innovations in this portion of a watch mechanism. I was initially confused about the similarities and differences between these two mechanisms, so I thought I would briefly outline them. Two watches represents the start of a potential trend, so this is probably worth doing.
In 2017, Zenith announced the Defy Lab, a watch (pictured here with a black strap) featuring the wholesale replacement of a traditional assortment with an oscillating wafer of silicon (see picture). Top: Zenith Defy Inventor, Bottom Left: Zenith Lab,Zenith Bottom Right: Silicon Oscillator Credit: Zenith The price of this reference, available in only 10 examples, was roughly $30,200. The Zenith oscillator is large in comparison to an assortment, having approximately the same diamater as a dial (in contrast, traditional assortmants can squeeze within a much smaller diameter). In 2019 Zenith "commercialized" this highly limited release with the Defy Innovator (pictured with a blue strap, reference 95.9001.9100/78.R920) priced at $17,900.
The specifications on the Defy Inventor are very impressive and in keeping with Zenith's accomplishments in the field of high frequency movements, such as the El Primero. The oscillator runs at 18 hz (129,600 bph), more than 4.5 times the typical frequency of a mechanical timepiece. As you would expect, this results in enhanced precision. The Defy Inventor was case-tested and chronometer certified by Timelab, with reports of accuracy ranging from .3 to .5 seconds per day. The power reserve is 50 hour. This implementation of a silicon oscillator was created under the leadership of Guy Semon (a PhD holding physicist) in the Research Institute for the Watch Division of LVMH. You can watch a video about the development efforts here.
Despite these advantages, observers did note that something might be lost with the rapidly "quivering" and flashing oscillator visible through the skeletonized dial. Traditional assortments have an almost relaxing and soothing impact on the observer. In contrast, Zenith' oscillator can seem frenetic and less peaceful. There were also rumors that regulating the Defy Lab / Inventor was a challenge for Zenith.
This week, Frederique Constant (FC) introduced three versions of its Slimline Monolithic Manufacture. The Federic Constant Slimline Monolithic Manufacture. Interestingly, FC also adopted the silicon oscillator as a replacement of the assortment. In this rendition, though, the oscillator is much smaller in diameter and also features adjustable weights. These, reputedly, make regulation more straightforward. You can see the FC's oscillator through a "heartbeat" window positioned at 6 o'clock on the dial. A watchmaker still requires a special tool to measure the accuracy of the movement. The Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is far more accessible for buyers, with a starting price of approximately $5,276. Amazingly, this movement runs at an even faster pace, at 40 hz (288,000 bph). At more than 10x the frequency of a standard movement, FC claims the Slimline Monolithich Manufacture achieves chronometer-grade accuracy. It's remarkable that FC was able to round out this package with an 80 hour power reserve. Interestingly, FC's version of a silicon oscillator was developed by Flexous, a Dutch startup.
The watch community has not had a chance, yet, to form an impression of the Slimline Monolithic Manufacture "in the metal." The smaller diameter oscillator may help address concerns that this technology is less pleasant to observe "ticking" away. What's remarkable to me is that, approximately three short years ago, a watch with a silicon oscillator was priced at five figures and extremely limited in production. Today, that price has decreased by a whopping 83%. The technology has decreased in size while seemingly improving by a factor of 2x or more (from 18 hz to 40 hz). The innovation has diffused internationally and to another brand. This is an incredibly rapid pace for innovation in the watch industry. It is akin to the type of competition we more often see in semiconductors and computer processors. Also, competition in horological innovation typically does not involve offering more for a lower price. We'll have to stay tuned in order to see if this nascent development transforms into a permanent trend.
I applaud the effort by watch manufacturers to minimize their contributions to climate change. Globally, we've made some progress towards "bending the curve" of greenhouse gas emissions, which is the good news. This figure from climateactiontracker.org shows that, even under an optimistic scenario, some increase in global temperatures is unavoidable. The bad news is that we clearly need to do a whole lot more to get to a point where we halt the growing cost of environmental degradation. As the graph I've presented here shows, existing policies are not enough to ensure a healthy planet for our children, their children, and all future generations. As Elizabeth Doer's outstanding coverage on Quill and Pad shows, the watch industry is discussing the challenges ahead and developing contributions to the fight against climate change. These include the use of recycled and recovered materials in manufacturing as well as requiring transparency in how raw materials are
Today, I learned a new term from an Instagram post by @ebaywatches. That term is "closet currency." No, this doesn't refer to someone stacking bills in some dark corner of their wardrobe. Instead, closet currency is the value that is stored in items that you put in your closet. At least, that's what I think it means. I arrived at this conclusion since eBay's post featured YouTuber Jose Zeniga describing the monetary value of different luxury watches. Zeniga also described a "luxury exchange" that eBay set up in NYC. In essence, you could take something out of your closet, go to the exchange, get an appraisal value, and then use your item and its appraisal to purchase another item that was available on the exchange. The formal definition of money is anything that is generally accepted as payment. In essense, eBay set up a NYC micro-economy in which almost any closet item could be used as money. Money is actually a pretty complex topic. It took a lo
Just before the US Thanksgiving holiday, I received a direct message on Instagram from the account @secondhand.secondhands. Al Worden's official NASA portrait from 1971. He's wearing the watch in question on his left wrist. They were looking for help identifying a watch on the wrist of an astronaut in a photo from 1971. The astronaut in question is Al Worden, pictured here. Worden was the command module pilot for Apollo 15. He orbited the moon 74 times during that mission. To this day, he travelled farther from Earth than any other person. Worden was a 1955 West Point graduate but he commissioned in the US Air Force (the Air Force Academy was not yet commissioning graduates so USMA and USNA graduates were able to commission in the Air Force). Before NASA, Worden flew the F-86D Sabre and the F-102 Delta Dagger. He then earned a Master's degree in aerospace and instrumentation engineering just before enrolling in a test pilot school in the UK. I've included a scree
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