This week's release of the Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Music Edition.The newest reference of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music
Edition in 37 mm (ref 77600CE.OO.A002CA.01) is not an opening act. It was in
2022 that we first saw the Royal Oak's famed tapisserie dial morph into stacked
rectangular rainbow bars evoking musical spectrum analyzers (or perhaps EQ's on
old school stereos). The most recent release is a first for me, though. I
went hands-on with the ROO Music Edition a few weeks ago so I thought I would
share some of my firsthand impressions.
This rendition of the ROO Music Edition is in black ceramic, a material in harmony with the musical motifs found throughout the design. Crown and case detail from the Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Music Edition. For example,
many stereo systems sport a brushed black face. The titanium crown guards evoke
the sliders on a sound mixing board while the case engraving immediately
adjacent to the guards are a nod to a sound board's grooves and scales.
The tabs holding the rubber strap to the case are knurled in a manner that
you've probably seen on the audio jack for a guitar amplifier. My hands-on photo fo the ROO Self-Winding Music Edition. For me, one of
the most striking features of the Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition is the black
rubber strap. The OG Royal Oak bracelet is perhaps one of the most well-known
designs in all of watchmaking. I honestly believe that with their design for the
Music Edition strap, AP has found an aesthetic that might rival the Royal Oak
bracelet.
I still don't know how they did it, but the facets that are molded into the
rubber strap reflect light in a fairly captivating manner. The effect is quite
clear: we're meant to think of a disco ball. The reflective effect from a disco ball is comparatively easy to achieve.
Rectangular pieces of mirror are affixed to a sphere and they reflect light in a
somewhat unpredictable manner as the ball spins.
A wrist roll illustrating the "disco ball" efect on the ROO Music Edition strap.
I honestly don't know how AP achieved this same effect with a rubber material.
The most obvious technique would involve some kind of polishing for the facets
on the rubber, but this seems improbable (although certainly possible). There
may also be something special in the material itself which surfaces a reflective
effect when the rubber is molded. A third option would be some type of surface
treatment which is reflective. I could probably populate a sizeable portion of
this post with speculation about how the reflective effect is achieved. I will
likely continue to ask until I get the answer.
The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition also fits well within AP's connection to
the world of music. The brand's relationship with Jay Z is the stuff of legend.
They presently have an active relationship with musician Mark Ronson. Superstars
such as Ed Sheeran
and John Mayer seem an avid collectors of the brand. From this perspective,
the Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition, in its newest rendition, is a natural for
the Audemars Piguet catalogue.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Music Edition is available in a limited production run of 250 pieces. Visit Audemars Piguet here for more details.
My book on the history of Rolex marketing is now available on Amazon! It debuted
as the #1 New Release in its category. You can find it
here.
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What it might look like if Aragon and Argon watches actually went to court over the trademark dispute. My prior post described a disappointing development for those collectors hoping to acquire an Argon Spaceone watch via the brand's Kickstarter campaign. The campaign had reached over $1 million in funding when Kickstarter's management stepped in and froze the whole thing over an "intellectual property dispute." When I posted about this development on Instagram , Hodinkee editor Tony Traina noted in the comments that another brand, Aragon watches, had filed a complaint with the US Patent and Trade Office (USPTO) back in April (thanks Tony!). Argon's account replied and indicated that they had already filed a registration for their brand name and they were retaining counsel in New York City. On Tuesday, June 27 of this week, more details were offered via a lawsuit filed in the US District Court for the Southern District of Florida. The case is filed on behalf
Rolex's relationship with automotive racing is, at this point, very well-established. A Tudor sponsored car taking the checkered flag in Japan. A clearer photo is later in the post. Formula 1 and Rolex marked a decade of official partnership this year. One of the brand's most successful designs is named after a famous race: the Daytona (500). And, the record-setting Paul Newman Rolex Daytona which sold at auction in 2017 was worn by Newman during his illustrious career on the race track. In this post I will detail a lesser-known relationship between Rolex and automotive racing. In the 1960's through the 1970's, Tudor and Rolex sponsored at least one race car in Japan. I initially learned about this sponsorship through my conversation with Elias, which was also the basis for my prior post on Tudor. While I am not the first to write on the subject of Rolex/Tudor auto racing in Japan (for example, see the posts here and here ), I believe this post will be one of th
Among many avid watch collectors, the term "in house movement" seems to elicit eyerolling disdain. Pieces of an assortment, including balance spring, from a non-Swiss movement. There is a sizeable perception that "in house" is, in fact, nothing more than an unnecessary marketing ploy designed to tease more money out of the wallet of buyers (by way of definition, an "in house" movement means that the mechanism inside a watch was predominently manufactured by a brand itself, kind of like "we make our own bread" at a restaurant). I'll confess that I'd begun to think similarly, that is, until I read a 66 page report posted by the Swiss Competition Commision on May 10, 2023. Yes, this is the kind of thing an economist finds interesting on a weekend, or at least this economist. Before we get into the details of this report, in the interest of full disclosure I should say that the original document was in a different language: lawyerese.
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