This week's release of the Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Music Edition.The newest reference of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music
Edition in 37 mm (ref 77600CE.OO.A002CA.01) is not an opening act. It was in
2022 that we first saw the Royal Oak's famed tapisserie dial morph into stacked
rectangular rainbow bars evoking musical spectrum analyzers (or perhaps EQ's on
old school stereos). The most recent release is a first for me, though. I
went hands-on with the ROO Music Edition a few weeks ago so I thought I would
share some of my firsthand impressions.
This rendition of the ROO Music Edition is in black ceramic, a material in harmony with the musical motifs found throughout the design. Crown and case detail from the Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Music Edition. For example,
many stereo systems sport a brushed black face. The titanium crown guards evoke
the sliders on a sound mixing board while the case engraving immediately
adjacent to the guards are a nod to a sound board's grooves and scales.
The tabs holding the rubber strap to the case are knurled in a manner that
you've probably seen on the audio jack for a guitar amplifier. My hands-on photo fo the ROO Self-Winding Music Edition. For me, one of
the most striking features of the Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition is the black
rubber strap. The OG Royal Oak bracelet is perhaps one of the most well-known
designs in all of watchmaking. I honestly believe that with their design for the
Music Edition strap, AP has found an aesthetic that might rival the Royal Oak
bracelet.
I still don't know how they did it, but the facets that are molded into the
rubber strap reflect light in a fairly captivating manner. The effect is quite
clear: we're meant to think of a disco ball. The reflective effect from a disco ball is comparatively easy to achieve.
Rectangular pieces of mirror are affixed to a sphere and they reflect light in a
somewhat unpredictable manner as the ball spins.
A wrist roll illustrating the "disco ball" efect on the ROO Music Edition strap.
I honestly don't know how AP achieved this same effect with a rubber material.
The most obvious technique would involve some kind of polishing for the facets
on the rubber, but this seems improbable (although certainly possible). There
may also be something special in the material itself which surfaces a reflective
effect when the rubber is molded. A third option would be some type of surface
treatment which is reflective. I could probably populate a sizeable portion of
this post with speculation about how the reflective effect is achieved. I will
likely continue to ask until I get the answer.
The Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition also fits well within AP's connection to
the world of music. The brand's relationship with Jay Z is the stuff of legend.
They presently have an active relationship with musician Mark Ronson. Superstars
such as Ed Sheeran
and John Mayer seem an avid collectors of the brand. From this perspective,
the Royal Oak Offshore Music Edition, in its newest rendition, is a natural for
the Audemars Piguet catalogue.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Music Edition is available in a limited production run of 250 pieces. Visit Audemars Piguet here for more details.
My book on the history of Rolex marketing is now available on Amazon! It debuted
as the #1 New Release in its category. You can find it
here.
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Last week, Icebox / Swiss Watches GA, a third party retailer of pre-owned watches, officially acknowledged receipt of a lawsuit filed by Rolex USA in the US District Court for the Northern District of Georgia - Atlanta Division. A screenshot of the Icebox / Swiss Watches GA retail location Source: Rolex's legal filing. The cause of action for Rolex's lawsuit against Icebox / Swiss Watches GA is "Trademark Counterfeiting, Trademark Infringement, False Advertising, Designation of Origin, Descriptions, Representations, and Unfair Competition." I've previously covered lawsuits of this sort filed by Rolex against independent retailers who sell modified watches. But this one is an order of magnitude different. Icebox / Swiss Watches GA has some very high-profile clientele. For example, a YouTube video from five years ago entitled "Post Malone Buys Rolex For 21 Savage & Autographs A Bugatti!" has over seven million views (the video content is pretty ...
We're certainly not suffering from a shortage of coverage when it comes to Rolex's recent launch of an entirely new product line: the Land-Dweller reference 127334 (steel, there are also precious metal versions). I've read much of this coverage and I will do my best not to repeat it here. Instead, I hope to share a few takes that you may not have seen elsewhere, including evidence that the watch's design heritage extends in directions that are overlooked. So let's get into it. To begin, the Land-Dweller is undoubtedly attributable to the leadership of CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour, who took the reigns of the brand in the summer of 2015. According to an expose by Bloomberg (more on that later), development of the Land-Dweller began roughly five years ago, a handful of years after Dufour took over. There have been many, equally significant releases by Rolex of late. For example, 2023's "emoji" Day-Date was arguably a bigger "mic drop" than the Lan...
I recently learned that the CEO of Audemars Piguet Americas (APA), Ginny Wright, was departing the legendary watch brand. A tabletop model of the AP "Starwheel," photo taken at AP House NYC. The new CEO of AP Americaa will be Louis-Gabriel Fichet, who joined AP in 2020. I learned about this development from an online watch publication whose editor opined on the matter . I feel obliged to respond to that piece because I think it reveals some concerning biases in watch industry coverage, biases which will only diminish if we talk about them openly and honestly. There were three critiques of Ms. Wright's time at the helm of APA that jumped out to me. First was the allegation that Ms. Wright suffered a "sudden removal." Subsequent to this critique, Ms. Wright posted on her Instagram account that she is "returning to the world of prestige beauty and stepping into a global CEO role." Moving from a regional executive position to a global one is not ind...
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